“Vineyards as far as the eye can see”… That phrase really sums up the first impression of Canal Lirou, the administrative name given to a group of communes situated somewhere between Carcassonne, Montpellier and Narbonne.
The French use the term commune frequently, as there are over 30,000 of them here! It identifies which administration center, or town hall mairie, is responsible for that geographically defined area – whether it’s a city borough or a hamlet.
Where is Canal Lirou?
Bordering the very south west corner of the Hérault département, a collection of 17 small towns and villages are unified under the Canal Lirou umbrella. You are unlikely to have heard of most of them, to be honest.
Well off of the typical tourist trails, life in these locations is quintessentially ‘rural France’ – and a far cry from the faster pace of life you’ll find in bigger towns a few kilometers away.
What does Canal Lirou offer?
If you love the idea of traditional rural life in France, with a Mediterranaen feel, you will be spoilt for choice! Nestled between the Canal du Midi and the banks of the River Orb, these 17 villages bestow upon you the Saint-Chinian, Minervois and Languedoc appellation vineyards. The prized domains are close to sandy Mediterranean beaches, Spain, and numerous international airports (Montpellier, Carcassonne, Toulouse, and more).
The area’s rich history dates back to dinosaurs and covers Neolithic and Cathar eras, Roman art to Gothic art, and the Via Domitia to the Way of St James. These villages are a treasure trove of culture just waiting to be discovered.
The wine festival in Saint Chinian is traditionally celebrated the 3rd Sunday in July
Which are the 17 Villages?
The 17 villages are locally considered to be either Côté Canal (Canal side) or Côté Vignoble (Wine side).
Côté canal
Capestang
Capestang is a port situated on the Canal du Midi and the canal path itself forms part of the pilgrimage trail Compostella de Santiago (The Way of St. James). The impressive collegiate church standing proudly in the town square was built in perfect Gothic style (13th-14th century) by the same team who built the cathedral in Narbonne.
Creissan
This wine-making village with a 12th century church at its center has also become a much sought after holiday destination with seasonal rentals, a swimming pool, equestrian centre and an open air theatre.
Cruzy
A wine-making village full of historical curiosities, the main attraction of Cruzy is the church of Saint Eulalie with its watchtowers and Gothic interior. In Cruzy’s museum there is a display of artifacts from local archaeological digs which include dinosaur skeletons and an exhibition of pottery and banners from the vineyard workers’ rebellion in 1907.
Montouliers
Montouliers is a typical wine growing village on the edge of two AOC appellations: Minervois and Saint Chinian. The village houses are clustered round the old castle which in former times belonged to the Archbishop of Narbonne. It also has a perfect example of how village streets used to be built in the Mediterranean region, along a sloping, cobbled street known as a calade.
Montels
The small village of Montels lies on the outskirts of the Capestang lagoon, a former lake and home to many species of birds such as egrets, teals, spoon-bills, herons and flamingos
Poilhes
Situated on the Canal du Midi, archeologists have discovered numerous relics in and around Poilhes, including two ancient English canons, which now stand on the banks of the canal and are thought to date back to the French revolution.
Puisserguier
A fortified wine growing village, Puisserguier has a rich past dating from the Iron Age. During the Crusade against the Cathar heretics in 1209, the castle was seized by Simon de Montfort’s armies. The castle, in the process of being restored, is currently open to visitors.
Quarante
Quarante was named after the stream running through the village – the Quarante.The Abbey church of Saint Marie was founded in the 10th Century, which contains a much prized 3rd Century sarcophagus and a 15th Century gold plated bust of Saint John the Baptist.
Côté vignoble
Assignan
Perched at an elevation of 275 metres, the village features views of vines to the south and garrigue scrubland to the north. The name Assignan was first recorded in the founding charter of the Abbey of Saint-Pons in the year 936. It now boasts a Michelin star restaurant and many of the village houses are painted in the colours of wine!
Babeau-Bouldoux
Babeau-Bouldoux is hidden from view by the hills and vineyards bordering the Illouvre and Vernazobres rivers, just 5 km from Saint Chinian in the direction of Saint Pons-de-Thomières.
Cazedarnes
Cazedarnes only became recognised as a town in 1850. The beautiful Saint Amans church, (now closed to the public), was first mentioned in the year 972 and has since been decorated with frescoes that recount scenes from the Old Testament and the life of Saint Roch.
Cébazan
Cébazan was first founded by Benedictine monks around the year 859. It is a wine-growing village that stretches along each side of the main road between Béziers and Saint Chinian.
Cessenon-sur-Orb
Cessenon-sur-Orb is one of the oldest settlements in Languedoc. The 145 km River Orb stretches the length of the city walls and whether you are exploring the hills and Saint-Chinian AOC vineyards or skimming down the Orb in a canoe, it’s a fantastic area for all outdoor pursuits.
Pierrerue
This small wine-growing town sits at the foot of the Fontjun pass and has a host of wine estates, all pleased to offer you a tour of their cellars or a wine-tasting. Pierrerue is also the starting point for two mountain biking routes that offer stunning views.
Prades-sur-Vernazobre
Located on the banks of the Vernazobre river, Prades comes from the word ‘pratis’ which means près (or “meadows” in English). The unique geography of this village has always made it an ideal place to live, as evidenced by the 6,000-year-old pottery discovered there and factories that flourished in the 16th century.
Saint Chinian
Saint Chinian is perhaps best known for its AOC wines, but with its popular weekly markets and attractively priced real estate, it is also considered one of the top 5 places to retire in France.
Villespassans
Standing on a plateau above Saint-Chinian and the River Orb, this historic village is also home to geological and palaeontological remains, as evidenced by the caves and dolmens discovered there. To the north east, low stone walls and dry-stone huts are a reminder of the agricultural and pastoral activity of the village, which is surrounded by a Saint-Chinian AOC vineyard.
What’s not to like?
Choosing between what you like and what you need is not always easy! You may have a few surprises when looking for a location in France that meets your requirements.
A rural commune infrastructure can mean limited shops and services close to hand. To find a larger English speaking network, colleges, hospitals and transport links, you will need a car or bus service to get to a larger town or city.
With under 1000 habitants, life in some more rural locations can also be quite isolating – particularly if you struggle to speak French and feel reluctant to try.
On the other hand, if you are willing to test out your language skills and integrate, a smaller commune can offer a wonderful sense of community and support, and your new neighbors will make you feel extremely welcome. To many English-speakers and most of our clients, this last point is the pièce de resistance in living a new life in France. The dream is to be immersed and enjoy an authentic French lifestyle, amongst the vineyards at last!
Renesting in vineyard country
If you would like to know more about Canal Lirou or similar rural areas of Occitanie, you can find out more from other English speakers in THINK South of France. Our team lives in this region of France too, so carrying out a property search or giving you a virtual tour is also possible if you’re thinking about putting down roots of your own. Please contact us if you would like more information.
Celebrating summer evenings with food and music at the local winery
Dennelle is the President of Renestance and a bilingual American who’s lived in France since 2000. She loves so many things about France, its language, culture, geography, quality of life... that she started a business to help others realize their dreams of living in this incredible place.
All articles by: Dennelle Taylor Nizoux
